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An island-hopping experience like no other.
With some 140 islands - 5 inhabited - the Isles of Scilly is one of the largest archipelagos in the UK, also know as the 'Fortunate Islands'. She takes us on 5-mile circular walk of St. Martin's, the most "unspoilt" according to Julia. After arriving at Higher Town Quay she heads north to Great Bay and then over to St. Martin's Head and looping back, before island-hopping over to Tresco Island. Let's explore!
We begin Julia's journey by taking a stroll across Porthcressa Beach on St. Mary's - the largest of the inhabited islands - soaking up its peace and solitude before heading to St. Mary’s Harbour to catch a tripper boat with St. Mary’s Boatman’s Association. Daily departure times sometimes vary so it’s worth checking the departure board at the quay which will point you to the right seafaring vessel. If you have time, grab a takeaway something from On the Quay before you head off on your journey.
Depart St. Mary’s Quay – board an inter-island boat to St. Martin’s (takes around 30 minutes)
Arrive at St. Martin’s for a circular walk around the island, only 2 miles in length. This island paradise comes with white sandy beaches and marram-topped dunes. Saunter along its sandy expanse from Lower to Middle and Higher Town and head off the beaten track for a host of enterprising local businesses, everything from a vineyard, flower farm, silver smith, observatory (home to two resident telescopes), watersports activities and seal snorkelling.
Before heading on her walk, Julia meets up with Ella of Phoenix & Providence – skincare products made with seaweed, discovered on her local beach. Ella spends her days dictated by the tide, harvesting seaweed by filling up her trusty wheelbarrow. Once harvested the seaweed is laid on my purpose-built racks to dry. The next process involves either grinding the seaweed to be added to my aromatic bath salt mixture, or infusing the seaweed in organic cold pressed oils. "This process takes a month, everything takes a little longer on island time!"
Start your walk at New Quay where you will be greeted by magnificent views of Par Beach's stunning bay. As you head inland, a bunch of diverse signs to various local businesses include SeaQuest wildlife safaris and Seven Stones Inn, which are ideally located near to Polreath Tea Room.
From here, Julia heads to The Island Bakery and Barney – the baker! - for salted focaccia bread and a crab roll. This tiny bakery also serves coffee and other delights to keep hunger at bay.
Follow the route round until you reach the red and white – very distinctive - Daymark, reported to be one of the oldest grade II listed beacons in the UK, used by seafaring folk since the 1600s. The views from here are spectacular. Along the cliff path you’ll spot amazing plant and wildlife and sensational beaches!
Julia's final visit on St. Martin’s involves sampling rum from SC Dogs Rum Distillery and Andrew – a former navy merchant who set up a small rum distillery and whose family dates back over 300 years (some would say the ‘real’ Scillonians!). This enterprising business uses only local ingredients and distils premium run and vodka from centuries of island life incorporating the stories of farmers and fishermen of St. Martin’s.
In the afternoon, Julia jumps aboard a tripper boat to meet Mike Nelhams on Tresco Island, who has been head gardener and horticultural expert of Tresco Abbey Garden for nearly 40 years. With 3500-4000 different plant species from all over the world, it is one of Europe's leading gardens, arguably with the best views. Ambling around this tropical botanical haven, amidst the ruins of a Benedictine priory, you'll need at least half a day to fully appreciate its scale (don't worry - there's a café on site). And don’t miss the fascinating Valhalla Collection at the onsite museum dedicated to a collection of fine figureheads salvaged from the islands’ numerous shipwrecks over time, too. You might even spot the native red squirrel, found in very few places in the UK.
During your visit circumnavigating your way around the island is highly recommended and where you'll get to explore more than just one castle: Cromwell’s Castle and King Charles’s Castle - and the geological phenomenon that is Piper’s Hole, once a smugglers’ haunt!
After your busy day, head back to base to saviour your experiences and for a well-deserved rest.
"This is some of the purest air that you’ll ever breathe, so they are the perfect place for a walk" - Julia Bradbury
“deeply envious of the lifestyle” - Julia Bradbury
© Islands' Partnership